One of the most unusual archaeological sites not just in the province of Málaga but in all of Spain is Bobastro. It is located some four kilometres from the urban district of Ardales in the area known as Mesas de Villaverde.

This archaeological site contains the remains of various structures—the ruins of the Alcázar, a Muslim necropolis and most importantly the Mozarabic church, which was virtually carved from the rock—that were erected in the ninth century and that for a time served as a refuge for the Muladi rebel Omar Ben Hafsun, who prepared the revolt against the Caliphate of Córdoba from this place.

The interest of the Mozarabic church of Bobastro lies in the fact that it is, so far, the only example of architecture that can be defined as purely Mozarabic, since it is a temple that was built by the Christian community during the period of Muslim rule in the territory of the Caliphate. In this respect the Melque Church in Toledo might be compared to it, but the origin of the latter temple has not been entirely clarified by researchers. For the time being, therefore, the Bobastro church is the only one of its kind.

Traces remain from the earliest structure of the church, which was carved from red sandstone. It is built on a basilica floor plan and parts of its three naves, separated by horseshoe arches, have been preserved, as has the sanctuary. The latter has three apses, the two lateral ones being rectangular and the central apse in the shape of a horseshoe. This temple faces perfectly east and has a length of some 17 metres and a width of a little over 10 metres. These dimensions may seem small, but considering that it is a structure built by boring holes in the rock it is of incalculable value.

It is the general opinion of archaeologists that have worked in this area that there are many more remains, probably of great interest, yet to be found at this site since what has been discovered so far clearly shows that only a small part of the Bobastro archaeological complex has been excavated.

With regard to the Muladi chieftain Omar Ben Hafsun—some historians prefer the form Umar rather than Omar—it should be noted that his birthplace was in the Ronda Mountains and that he established himself along with a group of loyal followers in Bobastro in 880 AD. From this region, which he made into his headquarters, he laid the groundwork for the uprising to overthrow the Caliphate of Córdova. His activities came to be a matter of great concern to the Caliphate but after various victories he was defeated in the Battle of Poley in May 891. His conversion to Christianity discouraged more than a few of his followers, to the extent that the lord of such important localities as Archidona, Baeza, Úbeda, Priego and Écija felt himself to be abandoned and the aid that he was receiving from the Muladis ceased, leading him to ask Alfonso III for support. The continuous defeats nevertheless compelled him to seek refuge in the almost impregnable fortress of Bobastro, from which he continued to fight. He died in 917. Although his sons took up their father’s cause the uprising came to an end with the capture of Bobastro by Abd al-Rahman III in 928.

The Doña Trinidad Cave, about five kilometres from the urban district, is another of the interesting sites in Ardales. This cavern preserves Solutrense cave paintings, a Neolithic archaeological site and several Calcolithic burial sites. You must arrange ahead of time to visit this monument by calling the Information Centre of the Prehistory in Guadalteba, in Ardales, telephone 952 45 80 46 or the Ardales Town hall, telephone 952 45 80 87.

To get to Ardales from Málaga take Highway A-357 (in the direction of Cártama, the first village you will pass through). You don’t have to take any turnings since the highway leads directly to Ardales.