While traces of the Moors can be seen in almost every village in the province of Málaga, in Frigiliana they left much more than a trace and are even today the defining influence in this village and its main source of identity. There are several interesting historical monuments in the locality but it is the village itself, and especially its historic Barrio Alto district (also known among the local people as Barribarto), that most attracts the attention of visitors. Beginning at its ancient fortress, Lizar Castle, the village sprawls down the mountain, forming a maze of streets and small plazas that cross one another according to no apparent plan. It is in this capricious urban layout that the charm of this unusual village lies.

Frigiliana has been inhabited since prehistoric times but like so many other Málaga villages acquired the status of an urban area, properly speaking, during the period of Arabic rule. It played a special role throughout the period of the Moorish uprisings against the order established by the Old Christians. Although they had converted to the new faith the Moors saw that little by little they were being dispossessed of their lands and customs, until finally they joined together in groups to obtain at least the same rights as the Castilian newcomers.

As a result of Christian repression hundreds of Moors from other areas eventually gathered in the fortress of Peñón de Frigiliana to put up a strong front against the menacing troops that were pursuing them on all sides, since that enclave was to some extent invulnerable. The place was besieged by Christian troops who were at the time under the command of Arévalo de Suazo, the Corregidor of Málaga and Vélez. Twelve companies of infantry who landed on the beaches of Vélez joined the Corregidor’s forces.  

The first Christian incursions were disastrous and caused the army numerous casualties, but Peñón de Frigiliana was finally assaulted and fell into Castilian hands after a brutal struggle that contemporary chronicles recorded with full details. According to these narratives more than 2,000 of the 4,000 Moors that had sought refuge in the fortress died and a number of women who had fought shoulder to shoulder with the men chose to hurl themselves to their deaths with their children rather than fall into Christian hands. Some had the opportunity to flee towards the Alpujarras Mountains of Granada but, wounded as they were, they perished on the way. 

This wrenching chronicle is retold in the form of a “romance de ciego” ballad on twelve ceramic murals by Amparo Ruiz de Luna that are posted on the main streets of the village. Thus while visitors absorb the unaffectedly picturesque atmosphere they can learn about one of the most important historic events ever to happen in this locality. 

After a tour of the village, which due to the extremely uneven terrain in the urban district affords some awesome panoramic views of the Tejeda and Almijara mountains and the sea, you can sample the delicious native cuisine accompanied by a good local sweet wine. Both in the Moorish district—which many people consider the best preserved in Andalusia—and in the adjoining areas there are many restaurant establishments where you can restore your strength while enjoying the lovely scenery.

Take the Mediterranean Expressway (A-7; N-340) towards Motril and a little way short of Nerja turn onto the MA-105, which leads straight to Frigiliana.